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Santé Et Nutrition

Why I’ll Never Buy Applesauce Again

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Every Wednesday night, Bon Appétit food director Carla Lalli Music takes over our newsletter with a sleeper-hit recipe from the Test Kitchen vault. It gets better: If you sign up for our newsletter, you’ll get this letter before everyone else.

The only way to make applesauce

Attention leaf peepers! I see you out there, exercising your rights to participate in the annual apple harvest, showing the kiddies that apples do indeed grow on trees, eating still-warm cider doughnuts and pretending you can detect actual apple cider flavor contained therein.

It’s a beautiful day, the one you spend apple picking. The last time I went, I had to wrestle an incredibly sticky caramel apple away from my then-3-year-old before we got into the car because I was afraid his baby teeth would be torn right out of his head if he tried to take another bite. He screamed for 45 minutes afterward, and I spent that time trying to come up with ways to use the 15 pounds of apples we somehow managed to pick and pay for. Of course, there’s pie. But let’s be real: Even a deep dish pie only requires about six apples. Not even going to make a dent. You could make a second pie, I suppose, if you feel like competing with yourself (I can relate).

ba recipe apple cheddar pie 1

Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Kate Buckens

You can make apple-cheddar pie, but it won’t use up that many apples.

But after a day or two of apple salads, apples and cheese, and apple cake, you’re still going to be staring down a giant sack of apples. And there’s only one thing to do at that point: make applesauce.

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The only applesauce to make is the one inspired by Julia Child, because duh what else do you need to know? The other reason to make it Julia’s way is because it requires the most minimal amount of effort. This recipe works with any type of apple, and it works if you mix and match all the ones you happen have on hand. Even better, you don’t even have to peel them! Just cut them in half, put them in a big pot with a cinnamon stick, some lemon juice, and a vanilla bean (or vanilla extract), then cover the pot and cook on medium-low. Et voilà: 35 minutes later, you’ve got mush. As an extremely intelligent reader sums it up on our recipe page: “Wow. That was shockingly easy. Five minutes of prep (including climbing the stepladder to dig up the cinnamon sticks) and 30 minutes later I had applesauce!”

Shockingly easy. Are there two more beautiful words to a home cook’s ears? The thing I have to climb the stepladder for is my food mill, which I use only a few times a year, and this is one of the recipes that helps it earn its keep. Once the apples have surrendered to the cooking process, morphing from a solid to a semi-solid state, I scoop them into my food mill and crank away, which efficiently purees their flesh and skins and holds back the seeds and tough bis of core. The finished sauce has a beautiful color (and added nutritional value) thanks to those skins, but you’d never know they were there. I also truly enjoy the fact that I don’t have to scoop out the seeds before cooking, because—again—the pies have exhausted me.

food-mill

Alex Lau

A food mill is your best friend for making applesauce.

If you don’t have a food mill, go buy one. If you don’t want to buy one, use a melon baller to scoop out the cores from the raw apples prior to cooking, which is pretty easy, especially if you offer a child 25 cents per apple to do this for you. (After cooking, you can use a potato masher, a food processor, or a blender instead of the food mill.)

When this process is done, several amazing things will have happened. First of all, your house will smell incredible. If you are trying to sell your house, make applesauce an hour before the open house and I guarantee you’ll get multiple offers and then there will be a bidding war. The giant satchel of apples that you thought was going to be in a corner of the kitchen for the rest of your life will be gone, and instead there will be a few quart containers of warm applesauce on your countertop. Before you even put any of it in the fridge, dish up a bowl and drizzle over a little cold heavy cream and give that a go, because it is an insanely good combo. If you thought applesauce was only for children, this warm-cool cinnamon meets dairy fat situation will make you rethink it, bigly.

Applesauce will keep in the fridge for at least a week and quite possibly longer. It makes a thoughtful hostess gift but it also makes a great breakfast (with Greek yogurt!). On the off chance that you feel like baking again next weekend, you can simmer it until it is concentrated and jammy and use it in this apple cake recipe.

apple-butter-spice-cake-with-cinnamon-glaze.jpg

I also love apple cake.

I don’t think I’m going apple picking this fall, because I don’t want to have another fight with my kid about caramel-coated apples. Instead, I’m going to devote an entire tote to some of this season’s apples from the farmers’ market. I tried the Snapdragon variety the other day—snappy, juicy, a little spicy! Last year I fell in love with the rough-skinned Golden Russet, a hardy type whose tough exterior can withstand nasty whipping winds. I love the flavor of an Empire, but the texture is meh—a great candidate for sauce. There’s concentrated flavor in the Pippin and the Winesap, and even if I find myself with a bruised or mealy one, I know it will end up in a good place.

Get the recipe:

Classic Applesauce



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Santé Et Nutrition

Edible Glitter Is Great and I’m Not Afraid to Say It

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Welp, I fell into a pile of glitter and came out looking like Mariah Carey’s ugly kid sister.

I’ve been caught with my paint brush in the golden pot of edible glitz (a.k.a. luster dust), carefully coating senior food editor Chris Morocco’s Snickerdoodle Party Cookies so that they’ll glimmer like gemstones from across the room. (I can implicate my colleague Hilary Cadigan—also guilty as charged.)

Purists can hate on edible glitter all they want, but they can’t deny that it turns otherwise regular old ‘doodles into party doodles. Fashion doodles, even! And come to think of it, a dusting of glitter could take nearly all doodles—Golden Doodles, Labradoodles, Saint Berdoodles (yes, they’re a thing)—from monochromatic to dynamic.

As someone who received one tube of pink facial glitter from my cool babysitter when I was eight, then used pea-sized drops on my nonexistent cheekbones for the next ten years (and only on the most special occasions), I’ll gladly admit that I’m as attracted to glitter as the next silly human. Oooh, sparkly! is just about the only thought that goes through my head when I see something that catches the light in the right way.

churros

Photo by Laura Murray, Styling by Judy Mancini

These churros have lots of sparkle, without the funny business.

While these snickerdoodles certainly do not need glitter—they already have lots of tricks, like cornflakes, cardamom, brown butter, Chris Morocco’s blood, sweat, tears (a.k.a. “love”)—their appearance certainly benefits from it. Edible glitter is the wellness serum that gives otherwise dull cookies that festive glow appropriate for a season alight with Christmas trees, Hanukkah candles, and your cell phone screen as you scroll mindlessly through the web before bed. It’s glitter that makes them stand out at the cookie swap or holiday potluck before anyone’s even had a chance to taste.

But consumable glitter can—and has, in many instances (see glitter lattes and gold wings)—gone too far. Put simply, to use sparkles as a crutch is an abuse of their power. To judge whether glitter is a welcome accent rather than a hasty cover-up or just straight-up Instagram bait, I think about my romantic partner dressed up in a fancy outfit. I want to love the person (or food) whether or not it’s adorned and I don’t want the decoration to be so over-the-top that it makes the person (or food) off putting or unrecognizable. A bagel that looks like it’s going to corrode my esophagus or a pizza that may or may not be molding is too much glitz: What’s fun about questioning whether I’m about to incur bodily harm from a metallic sprinkle mix that’s non-toxic but not necessarily edible? Where’s the joy in setting myself up to, pardon my language, crap rainbows?

And there are plenty of ways, thank the iridescent angels above, to make food shine with none of these worries. Tell me morning buns or sugar-coated churros, or raspberry rugelach, which get their pink sequined look from a mix of freeze-dried berries and regular old sugar, aren’t sparkly. Even steak looks like a gosh darn shooting star with a little help from flaky salt. The stuff we already have in the kitchen—coarse sugar, confectioners’ sugar, pyramidal salt—makes food glitter and taste better without warnings from the FDA. Just look inside yourself (and your pantry!): You’ve got all you need to sparkle just sitting in wait. You just have to unleash it.*

But when you’re grasping for a little extra holiday magic, you have my blessing—for whatever that’s worth—to reach for the luster dust. Just make sure it’s clearly labeled “edible,” okay?

*And yes, I am available for all your inspirational speech needs.



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Santé Et Nutrition

The Feel Good Food Plan Is Back! | Healthyish

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Every week, Healthyish editor Amanda Shapiro talks about what she’s seeing, eating, watching, and reading in the wellness world and beyond. Pro tip: If you sign up for the newsletter, you’ll get the scoop before everyone else.

Healthyish friends,

I’ll get right to it: The Feel Good Food Plan is BACK! Or, at least, it will be on January 2nd after all the stale cookies get cleared away. ICYM last year’s plan, the idea is to cook 10 delicious, healthyish dinner recipes during the first two weeks of January and have a total ball while doing so. This year, we’re back at it with 10 more hit dinners, a dessert you’re gonna live for, and a meal prep strategy so you can pack a different lunch every day (no more boring, identical Tupperwares). What do you have to do to join the party? Make sure you’re getting this newsletter and forward the sign-up link to your friends, parents, that guy you’re kinda seeing, or anyone else you’ll want to cook with come January, then keep your eyes peeled for the recipes—and some fun giveaways—which we’ll drop before the end of the year.

This Week on Healthyish, vol 1: Gift Guide HQ

Love it or hate it, we’ve officially hit the Christmas crush (note to self: good name for a punch recipe). To help you stay sane, we curated a few gift guides so you don’t have to think so hard about what to get your sister-in-law with intimidatingly good taste, your friend who keeps threatening to move to California, your do-gooder cousin who swears she doesn’t want a present this year (she does), or your mom who really needs a little pampering for once. And, for good measure, here are six ceramic mugs, none of which include dad jokes, and 10 books we Could. Not. Put. Down. in 2018. Consider these guides our gift to you.

This Week on Healthyish, vol 2: Foooood

Meanwhile our food editors have been producing true holiday miracles down in the test kitchen, like—[grabs airhorn]—MISO ALMOND BUTTER COOKIES. They taste like your favorite peanut butter cookie eloped with a salt shaker and went skinny-dipping in a dark chocolate pool. You’d think Chris Morocco would be sick of baking after developing every single cookie recipe in Bon Appétit‘s December issue, but he’s like the Energizer Bunny of cookies. Then, to clear his palate, he turned out a roasted broccoli recipe that just casually tastes like nacho cheese Doritos. Chris, you’re a maniac and we love you.

Vegan, but Make It Fish

I got an email the other day informing me that searches for the phrase « eating pegan » was up 337% on Pinterest. At first I read it as « eating pagan » and thought, WTF? But still: WTF? Turns out, « pegan » means that you eat vegan and also fish. Which I know is a trendy thing to do right now, but do we really have to give it a fake name? Can’t we just say, « I don’t eat animal products except fish? » And on that note, I wish we’d stop turning diets into identities: « I’m paleo. » « I’m keto. » « I’m vegetarian-except-for-corn-dogs. » Just say what it is you eat. Or you could, you know, not say anything and just eat.

The 5-Star Review

As if I need more cookies in my life, one of Santa’s elves (i.e. a harried mail carrier) dropped off a stack of Daily Harvest‘s new frozen, ready-to-bake cookies, and I have to tell you I’ve been dipping into the boxes every night for a week. Made with cassava flour and lightly sweetened with maple syrup, they’re soft right out of the freezer, which is how I’ve been eating them, though I suppose you could, uh, bake them too.

What I’m Reading Now

A copy of Busy Phillipps‘s memoir, This Will Only Hurt a Little, found its way to my desk recently and, against my better judgment, I love this book. No, it’s not To Kill a Mockingbird; it’s like listening to Phillipps tell her life story on Instagram, which is what got her 1.3 million followers and this book deal in the first place. She’s got good material! It’s fun and suspenseful and you should read it just for the behind-the-scenes ‘Freaks and Geeks’ and ‘Dawson’s Creek’ goss.

Enough now with the cookies,

Amanda Shapiro
Healthyish editor

P.S. Questions, comments, or joyful exaltations? We’re at healthyish@condenast.com.



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Santé Et Nutrition

Le médicament, entre bien de consommation et outil thérapeutique

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Ce texte fait partie d’un cahier spécial.

« De plus en plus de gens prennent de plus en plus de médicaments », lance d’emblée Johanne Collin, professeure à la Faculté de pharmacie à l’Université de Montréal et directrice de l’équipe MEOS (Médicament comme objet social), un regroupement interdisciplinaire affilié à l’UdeM. Du même souffle, elle mentionne la place centrale qu’occupe actuellement le médicament dans nos vies, et ce, dans tous les groupes d’âge. Autrefois davantage réservé aux personnes âgées et aux enfants en bas âge, elle constate que le médicament est aujourd’hui utilisé par tous.

Lors d’un colloque sur les régimes privés et publics d’assurance médicaments, organisé par la Fédération des travailleurs et travailleuses du Québec (FTQ) en novembre dernier, Mme Collin est d’ailleurs revenue sur la question. Elle y a mentionné que les usages non thérapeutiques du médicament tendaient à se multiplier. « L’autre élément important est l’élargissement des usages, car prendre des médicaments à des fins thérapeutiques pour contrôler les maladies est une chose, en prendre à d’autres fins, pour une question de performance, par exemple, est une autre dimension de l’usage du médicament », explique la professeure, constatant aussi une hausse de la prescription d’une combinaison de plusieurs médicaments, comme des antidépresseurs couplés à des psychostimulants.

De même, elle relève un phénomène de logique préventive de plus en plus présente. « En vue d’éviter l’accroissement des problèmes de santé, dès les premiers signes, dès que l’on est devant des populations à risque, nous avons recours au médicament », estime-t-elle, précisant toutefois que si cela explique l’accroissement du recours au médicament et que les enjeux du surtraitement font couler beaucoup d’encre, ce n’est pas toujours une mauvaise chose.

Un objet social

« Le médicament est devenu bien plus complexe qu’un simple objet pharmaceutique, il s’agit aujourd’hui d’un véritable objet social », peut-on lire dans Vers une pharmaceuticalisation de la société ? Le médicament comme objet social (Presses de l’Université de Québec, 2016), écrit sous la direction de Johanne Collin et Pierre-Marie David. « Il constitue un objet social, un objet qui répond à des fonctions multiples et aussi symboliques, détaille la professeure. C’est, par exemple, un objet transitionnel entre médecins et patients. »

Dans l’élargissement de ses usages, la prise de médicaments pour des effets de performance ou d’amplificateurs cognitifs est de plus en plus répandue. « On pense par exemple au phénomène des smart drugs [ou nootropes, médicaments qui peuvent rendre plus intelligents et plus productifs]. Ils sont pris pour mieux performer sur le plan cognitif et social. Nous quittons donc la frontière du thérapeutique », illustre Johanne Collin.

Toutefois, elle rapporte que les deux sphères, thérapeutiques et sociales, finissent par se brouiller. « La performance est importante dans toutes les sphères de notre vie sociale, tant au travail que sur le plan des relations avec les proches. Il est certain que quelqu’un qui répond aux attentes de la société à son endroit, qui travaille bien et mieux que bien, aura moins de pression sociale », décrit-elle. Le médicament peut ainsi permettre aux individus d’éviter une désaffiliation sociale. « On parle d’objet a priori thérapeutique, mais le médical et le social se confondent aussi, car on peut penser que plus on est intégré, moins on est susceptible d’avoir de problèmes de santé mentale, comme l’anxiété ou la dépression, même s’il peut aussi y avoir une composante génétique », mentionne la chercheuse.

Travers de l’industrie pharmaceutique

Johanne Collin mentionne aussi le rôle joué par l’industrie du médicament. « Il ne faut pas la diaboliser, mais il reste que la promotion des médicaments vient renforcer le doute chez les patients », énonce-t-elle, notant toutefois que cela peut permettre au public d’être mieux informé et conscient des possibilités thérapeutiques. Si au Canada, la publicité directe sur les médicaments d’ordonnance est illégale, elle reste répandue, notamment parce qu’elle est autorisée aux États-Unis. Cette exposition massive rend la distinction difficile entre une véritable maladie et une période difficile par exemple. En outre, la professeure rappelle que les sommes investies dans le marketing sont considérables, puisqu’elles sont trois fois plus élevées que celles dans la recherche, ce qui a aussi un effet sur l’usage du médicament.

Une utilisation de plus en plus marquée chez les jeunes



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