Paris Kid Week hiver 2019 : nos coups de coeur

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En même temps que le Playtime Paris, Kid Week est le rendez-vous parisien intimiste et professionnel du début d’année en matière de mode enfantine. Pour cette quatrième édition complètement repensée, Kid Week s’installait à la galerie Joseph en plein coeur du Marais, haut lieu de la semaine de la mode. MilK est bien évidemment passé par ici à la découverte des tendances de demain.
Bonton, Bellerose, Finger In The Nose, Tinycottons, Grey label, Mingo Kids ou encore la dernière collection unisexe de Céline Dion (oui oui), les marques d’ici et d’ailleurs étaient au rendez-vous.
Première tendance ; une prédominance des tons chaleureux (ocre, marron, terracotta). Nos petits se pareront également de poils d’alpaga, de pantalons en velours, de fausses fourrures, de pulls brodés et parkas chaudes, pour affronter le froid avec style.

Coups de coeur et happy news : chez les américains RYLEE + CRU, la collection bohème s’orne de matières douces et couleurs sobres, de rayures, fleurs, pois et carreaux pour des looks efficaces (grande nouveauté également, une ligne spécialement pour bébés). Gray Label réitère avec ses nuances naturelles et son vestiaire épuré. Mingo réinterpréte les basiques ultra confortables. Sonia Rykiel joue avec sa rayure mythique. Les israéliens Nununu collaborent avec Céline Dion et lancent “Célinununu”, une marque no gender black and white. Finger in the Nose excelle avec ses doudounes. Toasties développe toute une gamme d’accessoires. Unauthorized étend son vestiaire pointu, spécialement pour les petits garçons. Riveras s’entoure de Léa et Jojo… L’hiver prochain sera douillet, ensoleillé grâce à des teintes chaudes, et toujours aussi créatif via des collaborations inattendues. Mais avant, place à l’été !


Kid-Show

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Trouble filling up the tank this week? Here’s why

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There are plenty of reasons for drivers to get cranky with Mother Nature. This week, you can add “trouble fuelling up” to the list.

Dozens of gas stations across the Greater Toronto Area ran into supply issues this week — including in some cases being completely sold out — thanks to the wintry conditions on area roads.

Getting into and out of fuel storage depots, as well as the slippery, snowy road conditions around stations in tightly packed urban areas, is especially hazardous when you’re driving a tanker filled with gasoline, said Suncor spokesperson Nicole Fisher.

“We always want to make sure our drivers are safe, and because of this weather, they wouldn’t have been,” said Fisher, who wasn’t able to provide an estimate of how many of Suncor’s PetroCanada stations were affected. “There wasn’t a shortage of gasoline. This was about distribution.”

While deliveries started back up again Wednesday, not every station will be filled up instantly, Fisher added.

It’s been five years since the GTA has seen a similarly widespread rash of empty pumps, said former Liberal MP Dan McTeague, who’s now a fuel analyst at GasBuddy.com

“This doesn’t happen too often, but it happens. The last time it was this big was probably 2014,” said McTeague, who estimated roughly 140 stations across the GTA were affected. The worst-hit ones were stations in Toronto itself, McTeague said.

“Usually, it’s areas to the east and west of Toronto which get hardest hit when there’s weather like this, but this time, it was worst downtown,” said McTeague.

Busy stations usually get deliveries every two or three days, McTeague said.

The supply troubles were exacerbated by a run on gasoline as drivers tried to take advantage of pump prices which dropped to an average of 98.9 cents per litre for regular gas, the lowest the GTA has seen since October 2016, McTeague said.

Still, the situation could have been more dire.

“It would have been a lot worse if the depots or refineries had run out of gasoline, but that’s not what happened here,” said McTeague. The Toronto area is supplied by a handful of major fuel terminals, including one in Oakville and one near Keele St. and Finch Ave.

Those terminals typically have enough gasoline on-hand to survive for a while without being restocked by refineries.

“It would be a few days before they’d run out, if it came to that,” McTeague said.

It isn’t just gasoline deliveries which have been disrupted by the frigid, snowy weather across much of eastern North America. In storm-struck Michigan, auto plants and other big energy users Michigan have shut down or limited operations due to a natural gas shortage caused by a fire and frigid weather.

Eighteen factories and other facilities run by General Motors, Ford and Fiat Chrysler were affected Thursday. It’s not clear when they’ll resume normal operations.

The fire hit a Consumers Energy natural gas compressor station north of Detroit on Wednesday as record-cold temperatures swept over the region.

Elsewhere, beer delivery trucks in Milwaukee were pulled off the roads because distributors worried that the brews would freeze. In Chicago, train tracks were being deliberately set on fire by railroad crews, to avoid tracks from freezing and keep trains running.

With files from The Associated Press

Josh Rubin is a Toronto-based business reporter. Follow him on Twitter: @starbeer

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This Rent Week White Bean Dip Is Winning the Super Bowl

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Apparently, when it comes to taking pleasure in watching the Super Bowl, I am in the minority at Bon Appétit. I love the Super Bowl. And most of my coworkers do not. We have a lot of haters running through these halls. And I don’t quite understand it.

I get that football isn’t for everyone. I’m well aware that the sport and the organization that controls it have quite a few serious problems. But taking a frigid, ho-hum Sunday evening in February and deciding to drink whatever it is that you want to drink? And eat chicken wings? And hang out with your friends? And possibly catch an exceptional feat of acrobatics or strength or unity on the television? And eventually washing all of the cheese and salsa and sour cream off of your hands after deciding that you’re actually finished with the nachos? (And then going back for more?) How can you hate on that? That sounds like the ideal setup to me. If you’re hating on the Super Bowl, you’re really just hating on a good party.

Why is the Super Bowl called the Super Bowl? I’m sure there’s a story there, but I’m not trying to read it. I like to think the Super Bowl is called the Super Bowl because of the enormous quantity of dips consumed on a single Sunday night in February. So many dips, from so many bowls. The Super Bowl is a day of dips, just as much as it is a day of football. So for this Rent Week, we’re doing a white bean dip with harissa and homemade pita chips. Throw on this Hey. Enjoy. playlist I made you (both enjoyable and completely free of charge), get a nice stretch in, and crank your oven to 400°.

Some people hate on homemade pita chips, and I get it. To be fair, I buy Stacy’s most of the time. But when you have leftover pitas, or the chips at the store aren’t the flavor you’re looking for, or you’re inviting people over to watch a football game and want to impress them, homemade pita chips are where it’s at. And they’re pretty simple to make.

rent week dip 2

Photo by Chelsie Craig

These are what pita chips look like, incase you didn’t know.

Take 8 pitas, and slice them in half widthwise. Then rotate 90° and cut them widthwise, perpendicular to your first cut, into four strips. You should end up with eight pieces from each pita. The edges of those pieces will still be attached to the bottom layer of the pita, so you have to separate the top and bottom layer by tearing them apart. You are strong enough to do this. I promise. Throw all of the pita pieces into a large bowl, and toss them with a couple pinches of kosher salt, ½ Tbsp. garlic powder, 1½ Tbsp. of smoked paprika, and 3 Tbsp. of olive oil. Toss the pita so every piece is coated.

Spread the pita out on a rimmed sheet tray so they overlap minimally. You’ll have to do a couple batches, so don’t worry if you only have one tray or your oven is small. Throw them in the oven for about 15 minutes, until they’re brown and crispy.

In the meantime, we’ll make our dip. You need white beans to make white bean dip. Yeah, the name checks out. Drain, but don’t rinse, 2 cans of cannellini beans and dump them into a blender. Add a couple pinches of kosher salt, a few cranks of black pepper, and 4 Tbsp. of olive oil, and blend the beans until they all reach the ideal dip-like texture.

Don’t forget to check on the chips! They’re not there yet? Okay. Back to the dip. We need to add some more flavor to this dip to make it interesting. Add 3 cloves of grated garlic, the zest of 1 lemon, the juice of 1½ lemons, 3 Tbsp. of Greek yogurt, and a handful of finely chopped parsley. Now we’re looking at a bright, creamy dip loaded with richness, acidity, and flavor. Again, if the dip seems too thick, go ahead and add another glug of olive oil to loosen things up.

Does something in this kitchen smell like toasted pita? Oh, yeah. It does. Grab those chips!

rent week dip

Photo by Chelsie Craig

Swirl it. Make it nice.

Pour the dip from the blender into a serving bowl. Top the bowl of dip with a spoonful of harissa. You determine the spice level. I’m personally a fan of a mild harissa (because you really get the sweetness of the peppers, not just mouth-numbing spiciness), but if you want to bring the heat, go for the fiery stuff. Give the harissa a little swirl so it doesn’t just look like a glop, and top the whole thing with a couple decorative drizzles of olive oil and some freshly ground black pepper.

This is a recipe that’s pretty easily transportable, so if you’re headed somewhere else to watch the game or do whatever else it is that you do, it shouldn’t be a problem. Once you get there, you just let the chips do what they were born (or, uh…made) to do: transport delicious bean dip from the bowl to your mouth.

And remember, it doesn’t matter if you like football. Or if you know what the rules are. Or even if you can identify the teams that are playing. What makes a good Super Bowl party a good Super Bowl party (like any other party) is that you’re enjoying yourself. Drink what you like to drink. Eat what you like to eat. And dip whatever you can into whatever bowl of dip is within reach. Honor the bowl, whether it’s the one on the TV or the one in your lap.

Want a beverage to go with that dip? How about Gingerade?

rent-week-gingerade-7.jpg

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Lamb Meatballs, Red Curry, and Everything Else I’m Cooking This Week | Healthyish

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Every week, Healthyish editor Amanda Shapiro talks about what she’s seeing, eating, watching, and reading in the wellness world and beyond. Pro tip: If you sign up for the newsletter, you’ll get the scoop before everyone else.

Healthyish friends,

It’s almost the end of January. It’s only the end of January. Since I got back from the desert, I’ve continued to hibernate in my kitchen. Friday was for lamb meatballs, my ride-or-die. Saturday, I pulled together a vegetarian red curry loosely inspired by this one, and on Sunday I made those incredible soy-braised short ribs from the first episode of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat. Meanwhile my partner(?!) descended further into the carb-filled black hole of bread-baking, emerging with a loaf of sourdough and some pizza dough too.

It really set us up for the week. We had a lot of extra rice from the curry and the short ribs, so on Monday we fried it in leftover lamb fat with ginger, scallions, soy sauce, and some giant handfuls of spinach for health. Tuesday was pizza night, using the homemade dough and Joe Beddia‘s sauce recipe. Tonight I’m toasting the only-slightly-stale sourdough and sautéing leeks for a stripped-down version of these caramelized leeks on toast. I have a pint of dashi leftover from the short ribs, so maybe Thursday I’ll use it to steam some salmon and broccolini, a combo I’ve been crushing on since Chris Morocco‘s crowd-pleasing Feel Good Food Plan recipe. And Friday, well, I’m going out.

healthyish botanica yogurt moat

Photo by Ren Fuller

This is a yogurt moat. Isn’t it pretty?

My personal Cooking Season is definitely weather-related, but I’ve also been drawing inspiration from our amazing Healthyish columnists like our friends at Botanica, whose latest column is about how a yogurt moat (yes, I said « yogurt moat ») can turn any side dish into a meal. At the restaurant, they use a fancy local sheep’s yogurt, but you can use any full-fat variety you like, just be sure to season liberally with salt and whatever herbs, spices, citrus, etc., you like.

If yogurt’s not your thing, our brand-new columnist Sarah Jampel makes a good case for marinating lentils, especially if you’re a protein-starved vegetarian like her. They’re a great meal-prep component, but they come together so quickly you can make them as an emergency dinner any night of the week. I’ll be putting them on sweet potatoes with feta, tossing them into salads, and maybe working them into a pasta with garlic and olives.

And, reporting from Joshua Tree, Alison Carroll closes out her column with about a million ideas for how to cook with olive oil when it’s at its freshest, most nutritious best. Yes, olive oil has a season, and that season is now! Once I get my Wonder Valley shipment, I’ll be following Carroll’s lead and streaming it into pesto and over soft cheese—and if there’s another loaf of sourdough in my future, which I’m almost certain there is, you can bet I’ll be dunking that too.

Until next week,

Amanda Shapiro
Healthyish editor

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This week on ‘Focus Montreal’: Jan. 26 – Montreal

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Focus Montreal introduces Montrealers to the people who are shaping our community by bringing their stories into focus.

The program airs Saturday at 5:30 p.m. as well as Sunday at 7:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m. and midnight.

Take a look at who we’re meeting this week.






Kevin Gilmore becomes president of the Montreal Impact

For the first time since its founding, the Montreal Impact has a new president. It’s a major leadership change for the team who have been led so far by its founder and owner, Joey Saputo.

Saputo announced that he is handing over his responsibilities to long-time hockey executive Kevin Gilmore.


READ MORE:
Kevin Gilmore takes over for Joey Saputo as president of Montreal Impact

Gilmore takes over as president at a pivotal time for North American soccer. The league is more than double the size it was when it launched and the quality of teams has steadily risen since the Impact joined the league in 2012.

Jamie Orchard sits down with Gilmore to discuss his vision for the team.







Russia Rising: an investigative podcast

Russia has been accused of using trolls, hackers and even assassins to influence the West. For months, Global’s Jeff Semple has been digging into these issues and compiled his findings into a podcast called “Russia Rising.”


READ MORE:
This is why Russian trolls could influence Canada’s federal election

Jamie Orchard talks to Semple about the process of unraveling the mystery of Russia, in which he interviewed a former Russian KGB spy who trained with Vladimir Putin and even trolls and hackers.

The podcast is available as of Monday, January 28 on several podcast platforms.


READ MORE:
The ‘Putin Generation’: How Vladimir Putin has won over Russia’s youth






Montreal talent in the Oscar run

Two Montreal filmmakers are being recognized for their talent with an Oscar nod.


READ MORE:
Canadians at the 2019 Oscars: ‘Bao,’ ‘Animal Behaviour’ among nominees

Jérémy Comte’s Fauve and Marianne Farley’s Marguerite were officially nominated for an Academy Award in the category of Best Live Action Short.

Both filmmakers will be heading to Hollywood for the awards in February, but before they take off, they sit down with Jamie Orchard to discuss their films and their journey to the Oscars.

© 2019 Global News, a division of Corus Entertainment Inc.

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Montreal Shabat dinner offers blend of cultures to kick off Muslim Awareness Week – Montreal

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The Muslim community is reaching out to Quebecers.

Montrealers are being given the chance to learn more about Islam through a series of activities planned in the city this week.

One such event brought Muslims and Jews together Friday night for a vegetarian Shabat dinner at the Emanu El-Beth Sholom Temple in Westmount.

“I think when people break bread together, it shifts relationships. When people bake bread together, all the more so,” said Rabbi Lisa Grushkow.

Watch below: Montreal’s Jewish community celebrates Hanukkah with giant latke






The event is part of Muslim Awareness Week, an initiative inspired by the community in the wake of the Quebec City Mosque shooting.

Nearly two years ago, a gunman stormed into a mosque killing six people for the simple reason that they were Muslim.


READ MORE:
Mosque shooting victims fight against stereotypes in court testimonies

The meal was prepared by The Wandering Chew, a group of caterers specializing in Jewish meals and The Syrian Kitchen, a mother-daughter catering duo who were sponsored to come to Canada by the congregation.

Traditional foods from both the Syrian and Jewish culture were served.

Watch below: Montreal catering company hiring Syrian refugees






“I feel very privileged to have been able to come into their culture a bit and learn,” said Ronna Miller, a member of the congregation.

“It’s a chance to build bridges between two different religious communities,” explained Jonathan Goldbloom.

Following the meal, Montrealers of the Muslim faith spoke at the event.

“I think it’s very important to make sure that people are familiarized with us and to remove the negative connotation around Islam,” said 19 year-old Amani Shakhtour, one of the speakers.

© 2019 Global News, a division of Corus Entertainment Inc.

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Extreme cold warning for Toronto starts off chilly week, school buses cancelled

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Time to brave the cold, Toronto. Coming out of an icy spell this weekend, Torontonians are in for more frigid temperatures with Environment Canada issuing an extreme cold warning on the first day of the week.

While the agency is forecasting a temperature of -12 C during the day, it’s calling for a wind chill that will have it feeling like -30 C to -38 C this morning.

Environment Canada has issued an extreme cold alert for Monday morning, continuing a series of extremely chilly days in the city.
Environment Canada has issued an extreme cold alert for Monday morning, continuing a series of extremely chilly days in the city.  (Carlos Osorio / Toronto Star)

Several school boards have cancelled bus service in light of the weather conditions, but schools remain open. Bus service for the Toronto District School Board, Toronto Catholic District School Board, Durham Region, York Catholic and York Region District, and Simcoe County school boards are cancelled. Peel District School Board buses are running.

If you’re commuting into the city, give yourself a little more time — most GO Trains going into Union Station are running 15-to-20 minutes late. The TTC is warning that there might also be some minor travel delays on their lines because of the extreme cold. The 506 Carlton streetcar is being replaced by buses due to a streetcar shortage.

Torontonians are advised to cover up, wrap around those scarfs and uncuff those pants, as Environment Canada says there’s a risk of frostbite given the conditions. Winds will gust from 20 km/h up to 40 km/h and frostbite can develop “within minutes” when skin is exposed, they said.

The weather agency is also calling for the temperature to sit at -20 C, with wind chill expected to fall between -25 C to -30 C tonight.

Read more:

OPP respond to more than 350 snow-related crashes on GTA roads

Extreme cold warning, special weather statement hit Toronto over weekend

Edmonton and Calgary lose their chill this weekend as mild winter weather returns

The agency is also warning that if it’s too cold for you, it might be too cold for your pet as well.

Things will get considerably warmer after Monday. On Tuesday, Environment Canada is calling for -4 C during the day with a 30 per cent chance of flurries. The temperature will stay the same into the night, but there will be flurries and periods of snow. It might still feel really cold though — with the wind chill it’s forecasted to feel like -21 C in the morning and -9 C in the afternoon.

Wednesday will bring rain and temperatures that will feel tropical in comparison. Environment Canada is forecasting a high of 3 C with a chance of showers. But the warmer weather will be short-lived, with temperatures dropping back below freezing to -5 C in the night. There’s also a 30 per cent chance of flurries so prepare for a wet, even slushy day.

For the rest of the week, plan on leaving your house with considerable layers and a good pair of boots. Thursday will see a high of -2 C with a 40 per cent chance of flurries. There’ll be some sunnier periods throughout the day as well. In the night, the weather will drop down to -8 C with some more snow expected.

Not much will change on Friday — Environment Canada is calling for a high of -8 C during the day with a 60 per cent chance of flurries. The night will bring more cold and more snow with the temperature dropping to a frosty -13 C.

Premila D’Sa is a breaking news reporter, working out of the Star’s radio room in Toronto. Follow her on Twitter: @premila_dsa

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5 bars à cocktails pour la Paris Cocktail Week 2019

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SÉLECTION – Du 18 au 26 janvier, la 5e édition de la Paris Cocktail Week propose des breuvages – avec et sans alcool – à -30% dans 50 établissement pointus la capitale. Découvrez nos favoris.

Désormais bien installée dans le paysage événementiel de la capitale, la Paris Cocktail Week revient pour une 5e édition, du 18 au 26 janvier. Pendant neuf jours, 50 bars à cocktails pointus, sélectionnés avec soin par les organisateurs aux quatre coins de Paris, proposent deux cocktails – un avec et un sans alcool -, à un tarif préférentiel de -30% par rapport aux prix habituels, de 18h à 22h. Contrairement aux éditions précédentes, il n’est plus nécessaire de télécharger un pass pour avoir accès aux remises. Parallélement, brunch (à La Reine Mer, dim. 20), combats de chefs, ateliers et autres soirées sont organisées autour de la mixologie (le programme ici).

» LIRE AUSSI – La 5e Paris Cocktail Week célèbre le sans alcool 

Le plus féminin: Combat

Un bien beau combat que celui de ces trois jeunes femmes – dont la bartender Margot Lecarpentier, ancienne de l’Experimental Cocktail Club -, bien décidées à convertir le quartier populaire de Belleville à la mixologie. Leur bar lumineux, ouvert sur la rue grâce à de grandes baies vitrées appelle à la convivialité, dans une ambiance électro pop décontractée.

Le cocktail proposé pour la PCW: le Michelana à base de gin japonais, jus d’ananas, jus de citron vert, sirop d’agave, mezcal, bitters thaï et bière (9€ au lieu de 13€).

Le spirit-free proposé pour la PCW: le Rachel Green à base d’au gazeuse, jus de céleri, jus de citron vert, chinotto et miel d’aloe vera (5€ au lieu de 7€).

Combat. 63-65, rue de Belleville (XIXe). Tlj de 18h à 2h.

Le plus musical: Fréquence

Fréquence (Paris XIe).
Fréquence (Paris XIe). Philippe Lévy

Ce concept bar est celui de trois passionnés de cocktails mais aussi de bonne musique vintage. D’ailleurs, derrière le comptoir, des casiers entiers de vinyles ont remplacé les bouteilles. Entre deux préparations, le barman pioche un bon vieux Motown, de la soul ou du reggae.

Le cocktail proposé pour la PCW: le le Hi-Ball à base de whisky japonais, umeshu, pamplemousse, sapin, verjus et eau gazeuse (9€ au lieu de 12€).

Le spirit-free proposé pour la PCW: le Batsan à base d’eau gazeuse, thé fumé, sarrasin et verjus (5€ au lieu de 7€).

Fréquence. 20, rue Keller (XIe). Tlj sf mar. de 18h à 2h. Sam. et dim. à partir de 12h.

Le plus british: The Cambridge Public House

La toute nouvelle adresse du Haut-Marais est le dernier pub, ouvert par un Anglais et deux Bretons, où il faut aller siroter des cocktails aux noms british dans un décor feutré fait de bois, cuir et rideaux épais. Ici, on travaille avec de bons produits sourcés et on essaie de respecter le «zéro déchet». Une philosophie nouvelle dans ces établissements de dégustation.

Le cocktail proposé pour la PCW: le Tales of Us à base de bourbon, manzanilla au laurier et orange sanguine (10€ au lieu de 13€).

Le spirit-free proposé pour la PCW: le Stay Free à base d’eau gazeuse, hydrolat d’agrumes et d’épices, camomille, baie pink peppercorn et hibiscus (7€ au lieu de 9€).

The Cambridge Public House. 8, rue de Poitou (IIIe). Tlj de 15h à 1h.

Le plus rétro: Cravan

Cravan (Paris XVIe).
Cravan (Paris XVIe). philippe levy

Un troquet Art nouveau (plafonds fixés sous verre, zinc en marbre, moulures) installé au rez-de-chaussée d’un immeuble Guimard, mi café de quartier – mi bar à cocktails, nommé en l’honneur d’Arthur Cravan, boxeur et poète suisse précurseur du surréalisme. Franck Audoux (ex-Chateaubriand) y shake une dizaine de cocktails pointus servis toute la journée – les seules boissons alcoolisées à la carte.

Le cocktail proposé pour la PCW: le Troca à base de picon, vermouth rouge, curaçao, jus de citron et eau chaude (9€ au lieu de 12€).

Le spirit-free proposé pour la PCW: le Ginger à base d’eau gazeuse, gingembre et citron jaune (7€ au lieu de 10€).

Cravan. 17, rue Jean-de-La-Fontaine (XVIe). Tlj de 8h à 23h.

» LIRE AUSSI – Les nouvelles tables de Paris XVIe

Le plus exotique: Tiger Bar

Le bar à cocktails germanopratin use des codes de l’exotisme dans une déco très new-age faite de bois naturel et motifs herbacés. Dans cette ambiance de jungle urbaine made in rive gauche, on déguste des breuvages élaborés essentiellement à base de gin (130 références), en écoutant au fil des heures une playslist bien dosée qui monte d’un cran quand le DJ s’empare des platines.

Le cocktail proposé pour la PCW: le Starmania à base de gin, liqueur monastique, vermouth blanc, jus de citron jaune, sirop de thym et prosecco (12€ au lieu de 15€).

Le spirit-free proposé pour la PCW: le Chat-Mallow à base d’eau gazeuse, meringue fraîche, jus de citron jaune et sirop de vanille (6€ au lieu de 8€).

Tiger Bar. 13, rue Princesse (VIe). Tlj sf dim. et lun., de 18h à 2h.

À consommer avec modération!

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Fashion Week de Paris : vous avez dit bizarre…

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Plus que jamais, les défilés de la mode homme rassemblent des talents de nationalités et de sensibilités variées.

«Moi, j’ai dit bizarre? Comme c’est étrange.» La réplique de Louis Jouvet (Drôle de drame, 1937) vient parfois à l’esprit face aux défilés de mode masculine. Depuis tant d’années que les créateurs de Paris et d’ailleurs imaginent du prêt-à-porter pour homme, ils ne se lassent pas de détourner des matières, de créer des looks inédits et, au final, de surprendre toujours et encore. Les premiers à avoir investi les podiums français avec des habits déconstruits étaient les Japonais. Suivis des Belges et des Britanniques. Les Américains sont arrivés plus tard, réinterprétant les modes de la rue dans leurs collections. Aujourd’hui, il n’y a plus de frontières de style. Les tendances s’interfèrent, des designers antinomiques mixent ensemble, signent des collaborations. Le concept fait florès et débouche sur des best-sellers lorsque ces éditions sont inattendues, déroutantes, pour ne pas dire… bizarres.

Les formes, les textures, les couleurs ne sont jamais classiques chez Acne Studios. Du moins, sur le podium. Le directeur de création Jonny Johansson conçoit son défilé comme un laboratoire d’idées

«On ne revient pas le même d’un séjour au Japon», confiait, en novembre dernier, Pierpaolo Piccioli, à l’issue du défilé prefall 2019 de Valentino à Tokyo. Mercredi soir, sous une verrière du Grand Palais, son hiver 2019-2020, enrichi de son précédent opus et délesté de références sportswear, se recentre sur la coupe, le bien-aller, les détails qui signent un beau vêtement. Les premières silhouettes noires, déstructurées et fluides évoquent les grandes heures des stylistes nippons. L’imprimé d’une planète inconnue, floqué à longueur d’ourlet sur des vestes et des manteaux, rappelle que c’est aussi le pays de la science-fiction. L’année 2099 est inscrite au dos d’un blouson. Dans la foulée, le directeur artistique romain cosigne quelques pièces avec son confrère japonais Jun Takahashi, du label Undercover (lire ci-dessous), qui défile deux heures plus tard. Des pulls affichant un portrait de Beethoven et les initiales des deux marques mêlées, des parkas, des doudounes et des pardessus en cachemire imprimés d’un vaisseau spatial interpellent et signent la saison. F. M-B.

Les formes, les textures, les couleurs ne sont jamais classiques chez Acne Studios . Du moins, sur le podium. Le directeur de création Jonny Johansson conçoit son défilé comme un laboratoire d’idées. D’une collection à l’autre, les recherches sont plus ou moins avancées. L’hiver prochain porte sur des textures modernes à l’aspect plastique, des mailles et des cuirs irisés, des pantalons avec une des deux jambes à grands plis basculés ou plissés. Ces pièces associées les unes aux autres et de pied en cap frisent l’excès. Individuellement (et accessoirement dans une autre couleur que le rose Malabar ou l’orange survitaminé!), la plupart ont fière allure. F. M-B.

Luke Meier partage ses références dans la note d’intention de sa marque OAMC:de la scène musicale de Seattle au début des années 1990 jusqu’à l’exposition de Matthew Barney au Musée Guggenheim

De volumes remarquables, il est aussi question chez Raf Simons . Le créateur belge (qui a été remercié par la marque Calvin Klein mi-décembre) livre une proposition personnelle forte. C’était aussi le cas des collections qui ont coïncidé avec d’autres périodes de rupture dans sa carrière. Comme après sa séparation avec Dior fin 2015, qui avait donné lieu, le mois de juin suivant, à une collaboration collector avec la Fondation RobertMapplethorpe (printemps-été 2017). Mercredi soir, dans les salons de l’hôtel Shangri-La, devant un public placé à la façon d’un show de haute couture, un cortège de grands manteaux, trenchs et car-coats aussi sobres et sublimes qu’immenses défilent comme une conclusion. Des photos de l’actrice Laura Dern dans Blue Velvet (1986), de David Lynch, s’impriment çà et là sur des sweat-shirts ou des blousons -le talentueux M. Simons ayant pris le pli de dater chaque saison à l’aide de transferts d’images de son moodboard. Un continuum créatif des plus soutenus dans le registre masculin. F. M-B.

Luke Meier partage ses références dans la note d’intention de sa marque OAMC : de la scène musicale de Seattle et de Vancouver au début des années 1990 jusqu’à l’exposition de Matthew Barney au Musée Guggenheim de New York, en passant par une citation de Kurt Cobain: «The duty of youth is to challenge corruption» («Le devoir de la jeunesse est de lutter contre la corruption»). Le cheminement imaginaire ne s’explique pas forcément. En résulte, ici, un dressing mature, plus personnel que par le passé, caractérisé par des lignes fluides, des superpositions de lainages pleins et, parfois, des dessins naïfs de l’artiste Daniel Johnston et des cols de sous-pull en latex comme si les mannequins cachaient dessous une tenue beaucoup plus ambiguë. F. M-B.

Le défilé Rick Owens commence dans la pénombre. Une silhouette moins expérimentale que les saisons dernières se dessine

Le style de la collection Issey Miyake Men n’a rien à voir avec celui de Raf Simons, mais il est difficile de ne pas établir un parallèle. Depuis sa création – il y a cinquante ans en 2019 -, cette maison japonaise a toujours cherché à conjuguer créativité et technicité. Des bruits de métiers à tisser émaillent d’ailleurs la bande-son, tandis que les modèles du styliste Yusuke Takahashi se révèlent particulièrement originaux et maîtrisés. Rayures placées, coloris chinés en fondu dégradé ou motifs coup de pinceau sont reproduits en jacquard tout en conservant un aspect spontané et aléatoire. F. M-B.

Le défilé Rick Owens commence dans la pénombre. Une silhouette moins expérimentale que les saisons dernières se dessine. L’impression de vêtements plus structurés se confirme à la lumière, les coupes se calent à partir d’épaules étroites aux têtes de manches arrondies pour des blousons, des vestes en satin matelassé et des manteaux aux poches greffées en cuir comme des fragments de maroquinerie. L’Américain résidant à Paris a collaboré avec son confrère Larry Legaspi, connu aux États-Unis dans les années 1970. À l’heure où les directeurs artistiques piochent dans les modes passées sans citer leurs auteurs, Owens finalise la coédition d’un livre (octobre 2019) qui remettra le travail de son aîné dans la lumière. F. M-B.


Hip-hop et Soleil-Levant

Hier, tard dans la nuit, l’infatigable Virgil Abloh et Jun Takahashi, le créateur d’Undercover, se sont retrouvés derrière les platines de la Concrete, la péniche amarrée près du quai de la Rapée, haut lieu des sorties parisiennes. Outre une passion pour la musique, l’Américain de l’Illinois et le Japonais natif de la région du Kanto partagent la même approche globale de la mode, notamment du streetwear, tendance née dans les quartiers noirs des États-Unis mais largement diffusée au pays du Soleil-Levant. À tel point qu’aujourd’hui les Nippons excellent dans ce vestiaire infusé de hip-hop et de vêtements de travail, suscitant l’admiration au pays de l’Oncle Sam. En témoigne la présence de nombreux Américains en jean baggy et sweats à capuche à chaque défilé d’une griffe asiatique. V. G.

Un public de fans de rap US assiste ainsi au show Undercover . Sur la scène de la Salle Wagram, une horde de mauvais garçons en joggings molletonnés, parkas, impers et doudounes sérigraphiés d’images d’Orange mécanique (1971), marchent au son de la BO du film de Stanley Kubrick. Il y a aussi un peu de l’Italie du XVIIe siècle (l’invitation reprend d’ailleurs un extrait du Souper à Emmaüs du Caravage, vers 1601) dans ces milords des temps modernes aux chapeaux melon à plume et sneakers de running. L’ensemble donne une nouvelle vision de cette mode de la rue dont les jeunes raffolent. V. G.

Le créateur de Facetasm Hiromichi Ochiai secoue l’iconographie américaine comme peu d’autres. Pour l’hiver prochain, il juxtapose le mythe des sorcières de Salem, l’univers des Hells Angels et l’esthétique grunge avec une sensibilité dans la coupe et la déconstruction toute japonaise. Plus concentrée que les saisons précédentes (malgré les 108 passages), sa collection pour homme et femme est à l’image du pas cadencé de ses mannequins sous la nef de l’église Saint-Merri: énergique. V. G.

Autre Nippon, Fumito Ganryu, designer passé par l’école Comme des Garçons, défile pour la première fois en son nom à Paris. Des survêtements XXL drapés façon kimonos, des duffle-coats surdimensionnés comme des carapaces, des doudounes esprit sacs de couchage, des pull-overs d’étudiants noués autour du cou… Là encore, le streetwear est à l’honneur bien que jamais littéral. Si son style est affirmé, son propos aurait mérité d’être plus concis. V. G.

L’esprit tailleur est au cœur de la marque Sulvam, fondée en 2014. Le Japonais Teppei Fujita, sélectionné pour le Prix LVMH 2017, habille des dandys éthérés de costumes trois-pièces imprimés de motifs pointillistes, brode des perles sur ses vestes en velours et des strass sur ses cravates. Parfois, un panty aux surpiqûres apparentes remplace son pantalon. Ce gentilhomme étrange se balade en chaussettes de fausse fourrure (sans chaussures), le visage couvert d’un voile de dentelle rouge. V. G.


Louis Vuitton par Virgil Abloh, tout un symbole

Un gant blanc strassé en guise d’invitation et la réplique d’un boutde trottoir du Lower East Side comme dans le clip Black or White (1991), quartier pauvre de Manhattan dont Michael Jackson, première popstar afro-américaine de renommée internationale, n’était pas issu mais auquel s’identifiaient tous les gamins défavorisés. Contre toute attente, c’est finalementun subtil hommage que Virgil Abloh rend au King of Pop avec son deuxième défilé homme de Louis Vuitton : 65 looks qui se tiennent à distance des dégaines de l’artiste. Les silhouettes plutôt citadines et formelles, en flanelle de la tête aux pieds (maroquinerie, pochettes et sacs de voyage compris), adoptent au gré des passages, les volumes et les proportions du streetwear. Une collection se drapant dans la bannière étoilée, comme en berne, toute grisée, avant de reprendre les couleurs des drapeaux de toutes les nationalités présentes au studio du malletier. Un message d’espoir, d’ouverture et de diversité à l’heure où l’on veut rétablir des frontières. F. M.-B.

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Ontario corrections officers only get a week of training, London jury hears

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A former corrections officer at the Elgin-Middlesex Detention Centre told a London court that provincial jail guards only receive a week of training before starting their jobs and are not required to acknowledge changes to jail policy by their employer.

Greg Langford, 60, is a key Crown witness and has worked as a guard at the London jail for seven years. Before that, he worked for eight years at jails in Waterloo and Sarnia.

On Thursday, he testified that he warned his fellow former jail employees Stephen Jurkus and Leslie Lonsbary about « the distinct odour of alcohol » emanating from the cell inmate Adam Kargus shared with prisoner Anthony George on Halloween night in 2013.

George proceeded to beat Kargus to death in a violent frenzy in the cell that lasted for over an hour. George is now serving a life sentence for second degree murder.

The Crown alleges Jurkus and Lonsbary failed in their duty to protect Kargus from the deadly beating. Both men have pleaded not guilty.

Former EMDC supervisor Stephen Jurkus seen outside the courthouse in London, Ont. Jurkus and a colleague are accused of failing to provide the necessaries on life in connection with beating death of Adam Kargus. (Colin Butler/CBC)

Langford was initially charged along with the two men, but the charges were dropped after he testified at a preliminary hearing in May, 2015.

During cross-examination by Lonsbary’s lawyer Ron Ellis Friday, the jury heard how Langford described his training at all three jails as « non-existent. » 

« It was non-existent, your training? » Ellis asked.  « You’ve described it that way before. »

« Yes, » Langford testified.

Fomer EMDC guard Greg Langford seen here leaving the London, Ont. courthouse on Jan. 17, 2019 is a key Crown witness. (Colin Butler/CBC News)

Langford told jurors that his training consisted of courses in CPR, first aid, fire procedure and a week of shadowing a more experienced guard. 

He also received a copy of the standing orders, a provincial policy manual on how corrections officers should properly do their jobs.

However, he noted during testimony that when it came to actually dealing with the inmates on a day-to-day basis, guards largely have to figure it out themselves and often don’t perform their duties by the book. 

« So you can develop your own way with the inmates as long as you don’t break major rules? » Ellis asked. 

« Correct, » said Langford, noting that in his 15 years as a corrections officer at three provincial jails, he was never given in-service seminars or updates on proper correctional techniques.

Langford testified that the only training updates he received came in the form of paper handout. Even then, Langord said he was never required to acknowledge that he had received, read, or even understood them.

Langford testified that if the standing orders were followed to the letter, inmates would become uncooperative, causing delays, which would then upset the courts. 

« The place comes to a standstill, » he testified. « Inmates don’t get to court on time and everything goes bad. »

Adam Kargus was beaten to death by his cellmate on the night of Oct 31, 2013. (Deb Abrams) 

« The courts were upset? » Ellis asked. 

« Yes, » Langford testified.

Langford also told the court that in his time at the EMDC, the jail was often understaffed and overcrowded, with as many as three and sometimes four inmates squeezed into a cell that was only designed for two prisoners. 

On the day Kargus was killed, Langford recalled in front of the jury that he was frustrated because a staffing shortage forced a lockdown on Unit Six Left, where Kargus and George were housed because a number of guards had gone home early.

Ellis pointed out that while Langford claimed he had warned fellow guard Leslie Lonsbary and former supervisor Stephen Jurkus about a « possible brew, » Langford neither explicitly said anything about alcohol, nor did he tell them about Anthony George placing Adam Kargus in a chokehold earlier in the day.

In a surveillance video shown in court, George can be seen placing Kargus in a chokehold in the same room as Langford just hours before the murder. 

Anthony George was able to move the bloody mattress from his cell to another cell, all undetected by EMDC guards. (EDMC surveillance footage)

Langford told the jury that the chokehold was his first thought when he learned of Kargus’ death when he reported to work on November 1, 2013.

« I thought about the chokehold, it’s the first thing that came to my mind, » he said.

« Is it fair to say that you thought ‘oh my goodness, I should have seperated them? » Ellis asked. 

« Yes, » Langford said. 

Langford was fired from his job at the London jail in connection with Kargus’ death. 

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